Dragon Pet Door For Walls - Installation Instructions

Installation Instructions


  • Flap and Frame Assembly
  • 2 Tall Tunnel Sections - black, rectangular sheets
  • 2 Short Tunnel Sections - black, square sheets
  • 4 Tunnel Corner Guides - black, corner profile sticks
  • 8 Frame Screws – 1-3/4” long, #10 wood screws
  • 8 Frame Washers – steel 9/16” washers


Tools: Hammer drill, impact driver, 5/16” or 3/8” masonry drill bit longer than your wall thickness, level, jigsaw, circular saw, painter’s tape, pencil.

Materials: 2x4 lumber (at least 6ft), drywall screws, sharp masonry screws.

Skills Required: 

  • Locating studs inside of your wall
  • Cutting standard lumber to length
  • Cutting level and precise openings through your interior and exterior walls
  • Using and covering up drywall and masonry screws

If you are not completely comfortable cutting a hole in your home, we highly recommend hiring a professional.



Step 1: Locate the studs on either side of where you want to install your door and mark with a pencil or painter’s tape.

Step 2: Tape this template to your interior wall centered between the adjacent studs.

a. The top edge of the template should be at least 4” above the dog’s shoulders.

b. The bottom of the template should be at least 1.5" from the floor.

c. Level the top edge.

Step 3: Mark the physical outline of this template with a sharp pencil. Remove the template. Drill and saw out a small test square in the middle to check for wire/pipes in the installation area. Make adjustments as necessary.

Note: Triple check for studs - check the bottom, the middle, and the top where the cut out would be.

Step 4: With a 5/16” or 3/8” drill bit, 5/16” preferred, drill through just the interior wall on the corners of the template outline with the center of the bit directly on the outline’s corners. Drilling a small pilot hole first can help keep the bit from shifting.

Step 5: Place your jigsaw blade into the holes and cut along the lines you drew in Step 3 for the internal wall. You should be making a rectangle connecting the centers of each of the holes. Cut as straight as possible; aim to not deviate more than 1/8” from the line on either side. To protect your paint, slide your saw on top of cardboard as you cut instead of directly on the wall.

Step 6: Remove any insulation to expose the back of the exterior wall. Measure where your cutout is relative to the floor of the inside of your wall and where one side edge is relative to an adjacent stud.

Step 7: Mark on the exterior wall (looking from the inside) where to put this template based on your measurements, then redraw at least the corners of the outline.

Step 8: Drill straight through the corners of the outline from the inside wall. These should line up with your original holes.

Step 9: Tape off the inside opening with a trash bag to catch dust. Go to the outside of your external wall and redraw the outline using this template, lining up the corners with the holes in the wall. Double-check that you’re still level!

Step 10: Use a circular saw to cut the external wall. It is possible you may need a different tool depending on the wall’s construction.



Step 11: Cut tunnel sections with a saw or scissors.

a. Measure the total thickness of your wall.

b. Subtract 1/8” from your wall thickness. 

c. Cut the width (the short edge) of the tall long pieces to this length.

d. Cut one of the edges of the short square pieces to this same length.



Step 12: Cut tunnel corner guides with a jigsaw or hacksaw.

a. Measure the total thickness of your wall.

b. Subtract 2-1/16” from your wall thickness.

c. Cut all four of your corner guides to this length with a saw.

Step 13: Test fit the tunnel.

a. Lay the inside frame face down on the floor. If you have a single flap, the frame with the flap installed is the inside frame and the other is the outside frame. If you have a double flap, you can choose which is which.

b. Fit the tunnel section pieces into the inside frame.

c.  Press fit the corner guides all the way onto the tunnel section pieces with the corner guide slid as close to the frame as possible.


d. Tape together the corners of the tunnel where pieces meet after the guides (see right). Take out the tunnel, tape the corners that were in the inside frame, and then put the tunnel back in the inside frame.


e. Place the outside frame on top.

f. Remove the frames once you’re familiar with how they fit together, but keep the tunnel assembled!




We recommend hiring professional help for the following steps if you are not completely comfortable performing any of these steps yourself.

Step 14: Fasten installation lumber inside the wall.

a. Cut four 14” sections of 2x4. If your wall has less than 14.5” between studs or there are wires or pipes in the way, cut 1/2" shorter than the available space but at least 11”.

b. Place a 2x4 inside the wall as shown below. Place it horizontally and flat against the inside of the wall with the wide side of the 2x4 against the wall. Raise it such that it is 2” into the view of the rough cutout, either on the top or the bottom of the cutout.

c. Secure the 2x4 to the interior wall using drywall screws (see below).

d. Repeat steps b and c for the other three 2x4s, ensuring they are level with each other.

Note: For securing to the exterior wall, use either drywall screws or sharp-point masonry screws long enough to thread into the wood, depending on the construction of your exterior wall. If using masonry screws, you may need to drill pilot holes in your 2x4s.

e. If you are able to, toenail each of your 2x4s into the adjacent studs for extra support and strength.

Note: If your rough cutout is close enough to the ground that the bottom 2x4s are further than 2” into the cutout, either cut down the 2x4s or use 2x2s.


Step 15: Fit the frame.

a. Insert the inside frame, ensuring the frame covers the entire rough cutout. Tape the frame securely to your wall and then insert the tunnel into the frame. Use more tape than you think you need!

b. Check that the 2x4s can be seen straight-on through the frame screw holes. If you can see the 2x4s, the frame covers the rough cutout, and the tunnel fits, you’re good to continue.

Step 16: Drill pilot holes.

a. Make pilot hole markings on the 2x4s where the frame screws will go. You can use the frame screws to make indentations if you can’t get a pencil all the way through.

Note: If you have a 1/8" drill bit longer than 4”, you can likely directly drill the pilot holes without removing the inside frame. Be careful not to scratch your frame!


Step 17: Fasten frame to installation lumber.

Warning: Do not overtighten

a. Place the inside frame and tunnel back into the rough cutout, taped to the wall.

b. On each of the four screw holes, place a washer over the frame wood screw and then loosely screw the provided wood screws into the pilot holes.

c. Once each screw has engaged their pilot holes, go back and tighten down each screw only until the frame is sturdily flush with your wall. Check that your frame remains level as you go. Tighten slower as you reach the end so you don’t overtighten.

d. Remove the tape holding the frame to the wall.

Step 18: Install the outside frame.

Repeat steps 15 through 17 but with the outside frame, fitting it into the tunnel. Ensure none of the tunnel pieces are loose before you fasten!

Step 19: With a silicone sealant of your choice, we recommend sealing any gaps on the corners of the inside of the frames, as well as anywhere the tunnel sections and guides meet.


What's the difference between the single flap and the double flap?

The double flap option provides increased insulation against the cold. Both options have magnets on the flap to keep the door sealed in wind.

I want to get the large pet door for my dog, but I am concerned about a person fitting through it.

All Dragon Pet Doors come with a locking cover. This cover can be used to keep you doggy in. It also can be used to keep intruders from entering your home. It slides into the interior frame.

How do I know what size is best for my dog?

When installing the pet door you want it to clear the top of your dog's back by 1-2 inches, minimum. To give your pet the most comfortable pet door possible, make sure the step-over is less than 1/3 of your dog's height. Lastly you want the width of the door to be big enough to allow your pet to go through without touching the sides. Here's a guide on how to measure your pet with tips on how to determine the correct size.

Are replacement flaps available?

Yes, you can buy Dragon replacement flaps.

Where can I install the Dragon Pet Door?

The Dragon Pet Door has multiple Installation options. You can install it in Regular Doors, as a Wall mount, Aluminum Sliding Doors, Vinyl Sliding Doors, Sash Windows, Vinyl Windows, and Horizontal Windows.

Can my small and large dog share this pet door?

Yes, but make sure to follow standard Measuring Guidelines. Make sure the size of the door is based off your tallest pet, but installed low enough for your smallest pet. If not, then you should look into getting them seperate doors. You can check out our collection of indoor cat flaps for some ideas.

Is the Dragon flap for door mounting the same as the wall mount?

Yes! The flap and frames are identical, the only difference would be the hardware that is included for installation.