Liberty Pet Door For Walls - Installation Instructions

Difficulty High

Steps 15

Time Required 2-3 hours

Sections 04

Flags 01

Step 1 Measure Your Pet

Measure your pet and make a mark at least 3” above your pet’s height on your wall, this will line up with the top of the template.
If a height taller than the max is needed, you will need to cut a new piece of lumber for your pet door tunnel.
Depending on pet height and the height of your baseboards you may need to cut into the baseboards to install the frame. If you want to avoid that, make sure to set the height accordingly.

Find a section of your wall that is against a stud on one side, but does not contain any plumbing or wiring.
Once you find the stud, you can open a small area of the wall next to the stud that is large enough for you to feel around.
You can double-check for any plumbing, wiring, studs, or additional bracing that is in the way. Do not cut through plumbing, wiring, or bracing.
Extra-Large Size Only: This section will span from stud to stud for typical stud spacing of 16” on center (14.5" between studs).

Wall Mount Template Dimensions
Flap Size	Width	Height
Small	8"	14-5/8"
Medium	10"	18-5/8"
Large	12-1/8"	22-5/8"
Extra Large	14-3/8"	26-5/8"

Double check your template dimensions with the chart above before cutting into your wall.
Line up the provided template with the edge of the stud and tape it to the wall. Trace the side of the template along the stud. Remove the template, then cut along the stud line with a saw.
Line up the template again, adjusting to match the edge of the stud. Trace the remaining outline of the template. Remove the template and cut the rest of the lines drawn.
Remove insulation inside the wall as needed. You can save some to put back into open areas of the wall cavity.

Determine the width of tunnel pieces to use by test fitting each width or measuring the width of studs inside the wall.
For 2x4 studs, use the narrower (3.5”) plywood sections.
For 2x6 studs, use the wider (5.5”) plywood sections.

Screw the long wood screw halfway into the middle of the vertical piece to act as a handle. Insert the vertical tunnel section inside the wall cavity and tap into place with a mallet or hammer. The face of the plywood should be flush with the cutout. Add back any insulation that can fit under the cutout.
Extra-Large Size Only: For standard 16" on center studs, the top and bottom pieces will span from stud to stud so you can skip this step.
Extra-Large Size Only: For non-standard stud spacing, you will need to get wood from a local hardware store to create the frame for the pet door. The frame opening should match the size of the provided template.

Pre-install the four corner brackets at both ends of the two shorter plywood sections that match the width of your studs. The brackets must be flush with the edge of the short plywood pieces and centered.
Use only two screws per leg of the bracket.

Insert the bottom tunnel piece and screw it into the existing stud making sure it is even with the cut edge of the drywall and level or slightly angled down towards the outside. You may need a hammer/mallet to tap it into place if the fit is snug.
Screw the bottom tunnel piece to the vertical tunnel piece, making sure the vertical tunnel piece is resting on the bottom of the inner wall for support.
Use the long wood screw partially inserted into the vertical piece to hold onto it.
Insert the top tunnel piece and screw it into the existing stud and vertical tunnel piece making sure it’s level and even with the cut edge of the drywall.

Remove the long screw from the vertical tunnel piece.
Using the provided transfer jig, drill ⅜” holes through the outer wall from the inside of the opening on the top-left and bottom-right corners.
Make sure you use the appropriate type of drill for your outer wall.

From the outside, line up the hole transfer jig with the drilled holes. Level the hole transfer jig and mark the jig’s corners on your wall.
Use the drill bit as a pin to help line up the hole transfer jig with the hole.
Using the template lined up with marked corners, mark all cut lines.

Cut along the inside of the lines as accurately as possible.
Be careful not to damage the corner brackets and screws near the corners.
Trim up any areas that aren’t flush with the plywood tunnel. Clean the inside of your wall of any dust or debris.

Make sure the tunnel area is clean and dry.
The edge of the sealing tape should line up with your inside wall, with the rest of the tape overhanging the tunnel on the outside.
To apply the sealing tunnel tape, start at the middle of the upper tunnel and apply the tape all around the tunnel, ending with a slight overlap at the top. Make sure to press the tape tightly into the corners as you go.
Once in place, firmly apply pressure all along the tape to activate the adhesive.

Cut each corner up to the outer wall.
Fold back each piece of the sealing tape against the outer wall, pressing firmly.
Apply caulking to the openings in all four corners, sealing the cut area of the tape to the outer wall.
The sealing tape will be trimmed in a future step.

Make sure the four tabs are upright and snug to the inside frame. You may have to loosen the screw to rotate it into place using a Phillips screwdriver.
Insert the inside frame and level it in the opening with the hole transfer jig. While holding the frame flush against the wall, use four wood screws to screw the mounting tabs to the inside of the tunnel.
If there are larger gaps you can pre-bend the mounting tab toward the tunnel.

Repeat installation step #12 for the outside frame, making sure the flap(s) swing through both frames without interference.

From the outside, apply silicone in the tunnel, around the sides and bottom edges of the inside frame. This will seal the tunnel tape to prevent water intrusion.

Use a sharp razor blade to trim off any excess tunnel tape that is sticking out past the outside frame on all four sides.
Apply silicone where the outside frame meets the exterior wall on the top and sides, but leave the bottom open to allow for drainage.